Drink

• Yet another meal during this crazy weather week was the amazing M.F. Richter Riesling Dinner at Bar Cento which Mrs. Ep and I enjoyed with our wine expert friend, Tom. The guest of honor was Dr. Dirk Richter straight from the Max Ferd. Richter German estate itself. He spoke at length prior to the meal and prior to each pour and was an engaging, humorous speaker, who was very good at noting the superiority of Germany and the inferiority of pretty much everywhere else without annoying anyone (well, at least not at our table). We enjoyed six different Rieslings, which were highlighted by the opening Richter Riesling Brut Sparkling Mulheimer Sonnenlay 2000 (I cannot recall ever having a sparking Riesling, but I will certainly try to have more now) and the M.F. Richter Zeppelin Riesling 2006, which was surprisingly notable even when delivered in between five other similar (and I use that term loosely because they were all unique tastes) wines. Chef Sawyer and his kitchen staff were their usual incredible selves, with each course working superbly well with these standout wines. The crispy spiced hake fish was perfectly fried and served with a garum that was wonderfully different every time you tasted it depending on what clung to the fish. The boudin noir (blood sausage) with “challenging cheeses” and goose liver could have been a meal all unto itself, the flavors were so strong and striking, but my favorite was the opening mettwurst on toast, which Chef Sawyer described as smoked pork liver mixed with pork. It was one of the better things I have put upon my tongue this year, and the artery that it probably added a few layers of plaque to is a worthy sacrifice in the long run. This meal deserves a hearty “bravo” or whatever the appropriate German salute would be.